inwhale temp clamp

After glassing the inside and getting the graphite finished the next step is gunwhales. The above photo is my first dry fit of the inwhale. There was lots of measuring and fitting here. In order to get the inwhale length perfect you need to have the center amidships spaced out to its desired final width when you measure. I used a spare strip left over as a story stick and clamped it in place to take direct measurements for these parts.

I decided to scupper my inwhales. It looks great, gives you tons of lashing points and makes it easy to drain the boat when you tip it on its side. It also makes it lighter, since you’re taking away about 1/4 of the material. Basically there’s no downside (for me) other than the additional time and effort it takes.


scupper jig 1

scupper jig 2

This is the jig I came up with for doing the scuppers. Because I had access to a dish carving bit, I could do this with the inwhales laying flat. I think most people use a straight bit and do them on edge, which makes sense if you don’t want to buy a dish cutting bit. The big advantage to me of the way I chose to do this is that I was able to do both inwhales together simultaneously. This ensures that they are perfectly symmetrical.

You can see in the above photo that I’ve marked the waste areas with X’s. Make sure you don’t scupper the wrong areas. The blue pen lines are positions where the seat hanger bolts will go.


seat position

Here you can see the story strip clamped to the far side of the hull. This is the setup I used to layout where I wanted the seats. You need to do this before making the inwhales so you ensure that there’s no scupper where you want to mount the seat.

I played with lots of different sizes and spacing of scuppers until I found one that would fit my seat placement and not look awkward.


hole jig

After all the scuppers were cut, I repurposed the scupper jig into the bolt hole jig. I’ve chosen to put in brass threaded inserts into the underside of the inwhale. A lot of people drill through the top and insert bolts that way, plugging the tops afterwards. I think the inserts will offer me more flexibility. The holes need to be plumb and exactly 3/8″. Since my inwhales are 3/4″ I don’t have a lot of room for error. So the router seemed to be the best choice for this. I drilled 1/4″ holes freehand with the drill to remove most of the material, then used the router to finish them with this jig.


brass inserts

Each insert gets screwed into it’s hole with a blob of epoxy, to ‘seal the deal’ so to speak. A couple swipes with a file after the epoxy has set makes sure that everything is flush and smooth with the surface of the inwhale.


inwhale clamped

Some persnickity epoxy application and 44 clamps later, it’s on. Do a dry fit first with all your clamps and have them pre adjusted so things go as smoothly as possible. Surprises aren’t fun when there’s wet epoxy involved.