Take that Heath Robinson !

Meet my friend the seat jig. This contraption of clamps and squares is how you figure out exactly how long each section of a square frame needs to be in order to fit perfectly into a space that is curved in all three dimensions. It also lets you figure out how high you want the seats. Too high and the boat gets tippy fast, and the water is far away from you so your paddle doesn’t reach as deeply. If it’s too low than there’s no room for your feet or gear underneath.

For this design and my body I came up with 25cm. Based on some experiments with a plank and some buckets. When I set up the seat jig for this height it looks just right inside the canoe.



The short stretchers get tenons.


Which fit mortises in the long bearers.

Making the seat frames is good fun. It’s back to woodworking and joinery, and less finishing.

I’m finally getting to use some of that pin cherry I milled up ages ago for the trim. Since it got ixnayed for gunwhales I’m glad I can still make use of it for seats. It’s beautiful wood to work with. Cuts like butter.

The seat parts are joined together with mortise and tenons. I made up each one with the long bearers a few centimetres too long to be trimmed to fit upon installation.



Which comes out looking like this. That is friction fit at this point. The blue tape is the reference layout that I made with the seat jig.

I’ve made a discovery that my inwhale installation has proved to have given me an unforseen hurdle. Because of the tumblehome curving back on itself at the height my seats need to be, I won’t be able to just run long bolts up through blocks into the inwhale like I had planned. The curvature makes it so the bolts would be interfering with the hull.

So I’m going to need to come up with some creative hangers. Which will add a bit more weight I’m afraid.